Although the current jewelry is obliged to offer an affordable product to almost any budget if it wants to survive, there are still craftsmen who are capable of making unique pieces, not in series and adapted to many budgets. Today this is a merit and more if we talk about the filigree, a technique as old as exquisite.

The filigree is a technique in which jewelry pieces are made using very fine threads of silver or gold to fill a frame as a network that resembles lace. The resulting pieces are delicate works of art very light and much of its structure is air, the holes in the lattice, and are responsible for the subtle transparency that has the set.

The technique requires patience and skill. The drawing should be able to maintain the right proportions between its forms, lines must be identical design. That's not easy when working with something so weak. The final piece, however, must be firm and resistant to deformation caused by normal use.

To make the jewels of filigree are used thin metal wires of different thicknesses (plains or braids), usually to fill gaps in a frame, but also is done upon sheets of metal. The word derives from two Latin voices: Filumm (which is thread)  and Granum (grain), so I would say something like "thread granules", possibly for the granulated appearance of thread gimped (wrapped on itself).

The drawings are made with care and with the help of tweezers. The secret is in the welding of the threads together and at the frame. This is the difference between a good gear and a bad craftsman of the filigree. The process must be done delicately so as not to let marks. In general this is done with borax and a lower karats solder to avoid mess. At the end the piece is bleached and given it a final bath to match the color gold. Wash the piece and impurities are removed giving the final finish. Although of course, every craftsman has his own methods, and we can not talk about generalizing.

In Spain, the Mendez brothers (Luis, Raul and Jerome) from Salamanca, third generation of jewelers, are the greatest exponents of the filigree. Their store-gallery speaks for them.

The filigree came to our country and to Portugal thanks to Greek and Phoenician colonists. The Spanish brought it to America and was very well received, especially in the pre-Columbian America, highlighting the Mixtec (indigenous people of Mexico), such as artisans from Yanhuitlán  and Coixtlahuaca. Well known is the Peruvian silver filigree, especially the city of Ayacucho (important for local silversmith) and the Catacaos area. Unfortunately, most of the pieces were melted to bring bullion to Europe. Among the Mayan women still endures in the tradition of wearing jewelry of filigree and enamel so typical of the Yucatan. In addition, at the time of the colonys, the employer gave to the old sitter a string of gold filigree to thank them for their dedication and affection. To view the pre-Columbian treasures that remain, it should make a visit to the Museum of Oaxaca in Mexico.

In Portugal had its expansion in the eighteenth century, especially in Travassos (home of the Museo del Oro) and Sobradelo da Goma and after in Gondomar (Galicia).

Another important centers of development of filigree was China where was used precious stones inlaid between the threads of metal. The first known works date from between 770 and 476 BC, although its flowering occurred during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and reached its peak in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). Unfortunately, of the over one hundred workshops that were in the eighties in one district of Beijing (well known for its craftsmen of the watermark), only few of them survive due to the opening of markets of gold in nineties.

We can say that the filigree is one of the most beautiful and delicate techniques of jewelry. Anyone with a minimum sensitivity will appreciate the skill that is necessary to master it. Therefore, we encourage all those who have been wanting to know more that looking for a museum or a jewelry store where they can enjoy a piece made with this technique. It will be the surest way to appreciate this complicated work.